Malcolm Matheson (HB)

December 20, 2021

Malcolm Matheson (HB)

Malcolm began climbing in 1978 as a Horsham local lad. He put up the ever attractive Angular Perspective (27) at Bundaleer in the Grampians 1983, returning later in 86 to extend the route (28) through the roof. 1987 saw his ground up, First Ascent of "Journey Through Nicaragua" (30) at Mt Stapylton and a year later he became the master of Taipan Wall with the First Ascent of Serpentine (31), also in true ground up style, a route which was at the time considered the hardest ever climbed by an Australian and is these days rarely repeated without rap inspection and pre-placed crux gear. 1989/90 saw Malcolm putting up Contra Arms Pump (30), Red October (30) and the ever impressive Mirage (27) on Taipan Wall with it's dyno crux made famous by Simon Carter's photography. 1990 was also a big year for Malcolm with a return to the USA where he did such things as the Salathe Wall, 35 pitches in 2 days and the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite in 2 and a half days, as well as repeating several other hard routes. In the Grampians, at the ever popular Gallery, Malcolm has pretty much swept the table with First Ascents of Monkey Puzzle (28), Chasin' The Shadow (27), Gorrilla Tactics (26), and Hueco Dreaming (25) and a repeat of Like A Koala in its Eucalyptus (30). In 1993 his First Ascent of Welcome To Barbados (29/30), a 50m trad roof at Red Cave in the Grampians, that sees the climber upside down for most of the way, was done ground up, clean on his second attempt. The Great Shark Hunt (30) at Mt Buffalo and regarded as Victoria's hardest crack climb is also another of Malcolm's creations done in ground up style. Buffalo has held an attraction for Malcolm for sometime with a 3 and a half hour ascent of Ozymandias Direct (255m) in 1997 and several roped solos over the years. Malcolm is also known for making his own gear, producing much prized micro cams in the 1980's at a time when Wild Country (the maker's of "Friends"), said smaller sizes were not possible. Excelling on steep overhanging terrain and hard crack routes, Malcolm, now a proud father is still climbing with the best of them today. He counts his hardest ascents as his First Ascent of Demon Flower (31) and his repeat of Gilgamesh (31 M0).

Malcolm has been Sponsored by BlueWater Ropes and Petzl since the 1990's.


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